Until the late 2000s, second-hand clothing—locally known as okrika or bend-down boutique—was largely viewed as a last resort for low-income earners. The clothes were affordable, and the market catered mostly to people who could not buy brand-new items. But perceptions changed when more affluent Nigerians discovered that imported used clothing often outlasted many new garments. As demand from wealthier buyers grew, prices rose, gradually pushing the poor out of a market that once served them.
Today, however, the country’s economic crisis has placed both rich and poor in the same position: many cannot even find foreign used clothes to buy. Importers say they can no longer bring in the goods easily, and when they do, clearing costs at the ports have become prohibitive. Although foreign used clothing is technically banned in Nigeria and subject to seizure by customs, many traders previously relied on risky smuggling routes by road or waterways. These methods once offered up to a 90% success rate, but heightened border surveillance has drastically reduced their chances, driving costs even higher.
Investigations show that a bale of high-grade okrika now costs between ₦500,000 and ₦600,000—a dramatic jump from the ₦50,000 price tag of a few years ago. Lower-grade bales now sell for between ₦200,000 and ₦300,000. With foreign supply dwindling and prices soaring, many bend-down boutiques have shifted to selling used Nigerian clothes.
Some traders say the business has become increasingly unpredictable. According to Maxwell Okechukwu, a seller, imported bales often contain unsuitable sizes or unwanted categories of clothing, making resale difficult. He noted that sellers without sufficient capital now prefer selecting individual pieces instead of risking entire bales. “Selling okrika has its risks,” he said. “If you cannot afford to lose money on a bale, it’s safer to select or avoid the business entirely.”
Mrs. Helen Akugbe, another seller, explained that high import costs have pushed her to switch from foreign used clothing to Nigerian second-hand garments. She now buys dresses—including Ankara, silk, lace, skirts and tops—from individuals looking to dispose of their clothes. She sells these items as okrika, and says many customers are turning to African prints and lace materials for church and social events.
For some Nigerians, the trend signals deeper economic hardship. Mrs. Saidat Akinsola described her shock at seeing neatly used children’s clothing and Ankara pieces being sold as okrika. The seller told her that many well-off families now bring their children’s barely worn outfits to sell for cash. Akinsola said the experience reminded her of a time when neighbours freely gave out used items to one another—an informal culture of sharing that has faded as economic pressures force more people to monetise their belongings.
“I picked a few clothes because they were lovely,” she said. “But it was a sad reminder of how tough things have become. People now sell everything just to get by. May God help us.”